Asparagus

Spring is the most welcome season, especially when it follows on the heels of a long, bitter winter. Luscious, bright green asparagus is one of the age-old rites of Spring, even though year-round availability has made its appearance less exceptional. Even so, there’s something undeniably special about the fresh, tender juiciness of first-of-the-season local asparagus. Asparagus is a fragile vegetable that damages easily and loses moisture quickly. Its sweetness slowly fades once it’s been harvested, so it’s best eaten as close to the time and place of origin as possible. 

There are more than 300 species of asparagus, a perennial plant in the lily family. What we know as asparagus in this country is a cultivated version of wild asparagus shoots that grow in Mediterranean regions. The plant grows underground from a stem, which produces edible shoots for about 6 weeks each spring. The shoots must be harvested by hand, a labor-intensive process, which accounts for this vegetable’s high price tag.

Green asparagus is most common in the United States, although both purple and white varieties are increasingly found in specialty markets. White asparagus is grown in deep soil trenches or black plastic tunnels to protect the shoots from sunlight, which prevents the photosynthesis that turns the vegetable green. White asparagus is prized in Europe for its delicate flavor and texture. Purple asparagus, while pretty to look at, turns more green when cooked and has the same flavor profile as its green cousin.

When purchasing asparagus, gently squeeze the bunch. If it squeaks, it’s fresh. Closely inspect stem ends and avoid any that are split or dried out. Tips should be clean and tightly furled, and stalks should be firm and crisp. Avoid shriveled, slimy, or smelly asparagus, all sure signs that it’s past its prime. Likewise, if the woody bottom ends of the stalks exceed 15% of the total length of the spears, the plant has been harvested late in the season and the asparagus is likely to be tough. The thickness of asparagus stalks, however, is not an indicator of tenderness — younger plants produce larger shoots, so often jumbo stalks are more tender and succulent than their pencil-thin counterparts. For ease of cooking, select asparagus spears of similar size (thickness) so they reach desired tenderness in the same length of time.

Once at home, use your asparagus as quickly as possible. Freshness is crucial, as asparagus begins to lose its natural sugars once it is picked. If you must store it, cut off the bottom inch of the stalks, wrap the freshly cut stems in a wet paper towel, place the asparagus in a plastic bag and refrigerate up to 3 days. To prolong its shelf life, you can stand asparagus upright (cut end down) in about an inch of water, and cover it with a plastic bag to retain moisture.

To prepare asparagus, bend each stalk near the woody stem end to find the natural breaking point. Alternately, you can cut off the bottom inch or so with a sharp knife. Peeling the bottom half of your asparagus can be worth the effort. If you have a good-quality vegetable peeler, it’s not difficult. The advantage to peeling is that you remove the tough skin (which can sometimes be bitter), and you also reduce the cooking time, so the tender tips don’t overcook. Note that white asparagus must always be peeled.

Asparagus can be boiled, steamed, microwaved, roasted, or grilled. Whichever method you choose, be careful not to overcook the spears. To preserve asparagus’ bright green color and stop the cooking process, after boiling or steaming the spears, plunge them into a bowl of ice water and swish around until they cool. Drain well and dry with a paper towel. If you wish to serve the vegetable hot, place the asparagus in a skillet with a pat of butter and gently reheat for a minute or two just before serving.

There are numerous culinary uses for asparagus, but the best recipes let the vegetable speak for itself. Look for unfussy preparations that don’t camouflage the fresh, delicate herbal flavor of this springtime delight. The season for asparagus is oh-so-short, so enjoy its elegant beauty and sweet, earthy succulence while you can.