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Earthbound Farm Recipes
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Seasonal Food Spotlight Why Choose Organic? Choosing organic rhubarb when possible ensures that it’s grown in healthy soil free of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers. And when your recipe calls for them, always choose organic strawberries — conventional strawberries have been shown to carry high levels of pesticide residues. Organic produce is raised with methods that build vibrant soil ecosystems and protect our air and water. It’s better for the environment, and we think organic tastes better, too!
• Baked Rhubarb Rhubarb is one of those iconic vegetables that transports us from one season to the next, from the dull days of winter to the regeneration of spring. Botanically speaking, rhubarb is a vegetable because it has both leaf and stem; however, it was officially proclaimed a fruit in 1947 by the US Customs Court, because that’s how we eat it in this country — it’s so firmly established as a fruit in our national consciousness that it’s commonly called “pie plant.” Selecting Rhubarb Fresh rhubarb is generally available across the country from April to October. Hothouse rhubarb appears from December through March and may be available year-round in some markets.
Rhubarb originated in the Himalayas, where its root was an important medicine believed to purge the body of ill humors. By the mid-17th century, it had become popular in Europe as a medicinal tonic. Demand for the rhubarb rhizome was so great that it was reputedly ten times more expensive than cinnamon and more than twice the cost of opium. In Russia, the czars maintained a monopoly over the lucrative rhubarb trade. Culinary uses of rhubarb were slower to develop. Rhubarb is robustly tart, even sour, and its leaves contain oxalic acid, which can be toxic if eaten in quantity. Rhubarb only became popular as an edible plant once refined sugar became widely available, and its culinary role today is mostly confined to desserts. There are two basic types of rhubarb: hothouse (or strawberry rhubarb) and field-grown (also called cherry rhubarb). Hothouse varieties are milder in flavor, with smoother flesh and a more delicate texture; those stalks are light pink to pale red, often speckled with green, with giant elephant-ear leaves that are yellow-green rather than deep emerald. Field-grown rhubarb is characterized by large, thick stalks that tend to be stringy, although they’re very juicy and a deep cherry-red in color. Its flavor is more robust and tart than hothouse varieties, with bolder acidity. Generally speaking, peeling rhubarb isn’t necessary; however, if your stalks are very mature and stringy, it’s advisable to remove the coarse fibers with a paring knife or peeler. Cook rhubarb in a non-reactive pan so the stalks don’t turn an unappealing gray color or pick up a metallic flavor. Rhubarb cooks extremely fast, so take care not to overcook it, which will make the stalks mushy and tasteless. Rhubarb is revered for its distinctive combination of tartness and fruity flavor. Other cultures have a long history of using rhubarb as a vegetable — cooked with potatoes in Poland, made into an alcoholic beverage in Italy, braised in the tagines of North Africa, and added to stews and koreshes across Iran and Afghanistan — but here at home, rhubarb is seen as a fruit, featured in pies, cobblers, fools, and jams. Although rhubarb is often paired with strawberries, it’s delicious on its own or in combination with citrus, pineapple, pears, and herbs. It can be roasted, baked, stewed, poached, candied, or juiced, which offers the cook great versatility. For a change of pace, try it pureed and lightly sweetened as a flavorful sauce for pork. Unadorned, rhubarb is low in calories, but it needs a lot of sweetening to balance its acidity; combining it with other fruits and berries reduces the need for so much sugar. Delicious and Nutritious, Too Rhubarb is known for its distinctive tart pucker and pure, fruity aftertaste — and it’s nutritious. Two cups of raw, sliced rhubarb provides:
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